3D Printer - Rostock MAX

From i3Detroit
(Redirected from 3D Printer: Rostock MAX)
Jump to: navigation, search


Rostock MAX 3-D Printer

Basic Info

  • Ownership: Andrew Meyer (100%)
  • Location: South wall, you can't miss it.
  • What it looks like:
Rostock MAX

Manufacturer Information

  • Make/Model: SeeMeCNC Rostock MAX
  • Part Number: N/A


SeeMeCNC homepage


  • Please get training before use.
  • Please donate $0.10 per cubic centimeter or per gram of ABS (or $0.20 per cubic centimeter or per gram of PETT), whether or not the print succeeded. This covers both replacement cost of media, and maintenance costs. There will eventually be an indicator on the LCD at the end of the job, or when the job is terminated, showing an estimated cost of print.
On the left, hot-melt glue stick. On the right, Elmer's School glue stick. Do NOT use hot-melt glue sticks on the print bed.


Normal Printing

  • Get your model into an STL file.
  • Run CURA from the icon on the desktop of the Rostock VM. It will open with the settings left by the previous user.
  • File->Clear platform
  • File->Load model file
  • Check that infill, perimeters, etc. are set the way you want.
  • At the top of the CURA window, there is a readout of how much filament will be consumed, both in linear meters and in cubic centimeters. Since ABS has a density roughly equal to 1 gm/cm^3, you can assume that your print will be roughly this much plastic in grams. Plan payment accordingly.
  • File->Save gcode (it has already been generated while you weren't looking)
  • Copy the gcode file you just saved to the Rostock SD card
  • Put the SD card back into the Rostock and print your file
  • Wait impatiently for your print to finish.
  • Wait some more.
  • And a little more.
  • Once the print is done, wait for the bed to reach ~40C, and forcefully pry the print off the bed with your hands. DO NOT USE A METAL SCRAPER--THE BED IS GLASS. If the glass comes off, there are 6 binder clips that hold it to the heater. Two sit in the front, then one per gap in the heater support around the perimeter. Positioning of the bed is not critical.
  • If the bed looks like it have patchy areas of shiny glass, use a standard Elmer's School glue stick (not a hot-melt glue stick!) to recoat those areas for the next person.
  • Toss the recommended donation based on the final mass of your print (based on the scale, not the CURA readout) into the bin labeled for the purpose.

KISSlicer Settings

Get working KISSlicer config files here

Error Recovery

  • If anything goes wrong with the print, turn off the machine with its power switch.
  • Please do contribute to the filament fund for the mass you did end up with.
  • Take notes (and pictures!) on what failed, and send them to Andrew Meyer .

Filament Change

  • If you want to change the filament that is in the machine, set the Extruder temperature to 230C through the machine's LCD interface, and wait for it to heat up.
  • Hold the red lever on the extruder down, and firmly pull up on the filament, drawing it up and out of the hotend and Bowden cable.
  • Neatly spool up the filament back onto its source spool, lock the end into the spool side, and grab the new spool.
  • Feed the filament through the top plate of the machine, and into the extruder--make sure to hold down the red lever on the extruder.
  • Once you have the filament in the Bowden cable, keep pushing the filament through until you see filament of the new color extruded out of the hotend.
  • Go print!

Printing with PET filament

Polyethylene terephthalate is an experimental material for this printer hand has some know issues. That being said, it makes very pretty things if you're careful.

  • Contact Matt Gardeski (preferably via IRC) because he bought the stuff and spent many hours working with it.
  • In your slicer settings, set bed temp to 65C. This is the lowest temperature at which the PET will stick to the glass and is cool enough that the PET will harden reasonably quickly.
  • Set nozzle temperature to 212C. This is important. PET is more sensitive to temperature swings than ABS.
  • Set fan speed to 100%. If you don't, the filament will buckle inside the hotend and someone will have to disassemble it to get it out.
  • The 0.7mm nozzle tends to produce better results with PET. It's the one without all the burnt ABS crud on it.
  • Clean the glass. Use the window cleaner next to the printer and a towel. PET sticks to shiny clean glass and comes off cleanly when the bed is cooled

Authorized Users and Trainers

Certified Trainers

Trainer NameCertified Date
Andrew Meyer27 December 2014
Leonard Kinnaird-Heether27 December 2014
Matt Gardeski27 December 2014
Matt Huber27 December 2014

Authorized Users

User NameTrained ByTrained Date
Alek MabryAndrew Meyer20 January 2015
Andrew MeyerAndrew Meyer27 December 2014
Brad TarrattAndrew Meyer1 January 2015
Brandon BillerAndrew Meyer27 December 2014
Jon AndersonAndrew Meyer28 December 2014
Ken SiegnerAndrew Meyer24 January 2015
Leonard Kinnaird-HeetherAndrew Meyer27 December 2014
Matt GardeskiAndrew Meyer27 December 2014
Matt HuberAndrew Meyer27 December 2014
Matthew MabryAndrew Meyer20 January 2015
Nicole WeltmanAndrew Meyer20 January 2015
Stephen MarlowAndrew Meyer27 December 2014

View Rostock MAX Access here

Edit Rostock MAX Access Here

Other References

SeeMeCNC github firmware repository

Thingiverse model repository

YouMagine model repository



  • Ensure even coat of gluestick on bed.
  • Get hotend up to temperature and wipe off encrusted plastic with a shop towel, if any.


  • Wash off glass plate for heated bed. Regular soap and water will do. Recoat evenly with gluestick after cleaning.
  • Ensure axes run smoothly, and no damage to belts is happening (no black rubber dust under the three axis motors).


  • Run PID autotune on bed and hotend.
  • Ensure bed is level and calibrated.
  • PTFE/Teflon spray lube into all delta joints--thoroughly wash bed with acetone, isopropyl, and soap and water afterwards, then recoat with gluestick.


  • The filament is nominally 1.75mm diameter plastic filament purchased from SeeMeCNC. Please do not source filament from anywhere other than SeeMeCNC without asking first--many cheap suppliers pad out their filament weights with tiny steel ball bearings, which will cause havoc in the hotend.

Filament Stock

  1. SeeMeCNC Neon Green ABS, 1kg, purchased 2013-07-27
  2. SeeMeCNC Neon Orange ABS, 1kg, purchased 2013-07-27
  3. SeeMeCNC Dark Blue ABS, 1kg, purchased 2013-07-27
  4. Taulman T-Glase PET (AKA PETT, AKA PETP...), 1lb., purchased 2013-10-01
  5. DC Plastico Black ABS, 1 kg, purchased 2014-10-04
  6. DC Plastico Transparent blue PLA, 1 kg, purchased 2014-10-04
  7. DC Plastico Transparent green PLA, 1 kg, purchased 2014-10-04
  8. SeeMeCNC White ABS, 1kg, purchased 2015-02-20
  9. SeeMeCNC Purple ABS, 1kg, purchased 2015-02-20
  10. Taulman BRIDGE Nylon, 1lb., purchased 2015-02-20

Setup and Mechanical Alignment



5-24-2014 - Firmware was updated to 0.91 from: https://github.com/seemecnc/Repetier-091-ROSTOCKMAX.git K-Type Thermocouple and AD595 Thermocouple amplifier was added. This requires configuration changes in the firmware. If you update the firmware in the future be sure to make the changes below:

  • Configuration.h


  • Pins.h - under board config "RAMBo Pin Assignments"

#define TEMP_0_PIN 8

Things that Need to be Done

  • Automated display of per-print cost.
  • Cooling fan design/build.


none yet


GoPro Hero3+ Frame