3D Printer - Rostock MAX
|3D Printer - Rostock MAX|
|Name||Rostock MAX 3-D Printer|
|Make Model||SeeMeCNC Rostock MAX|
|Storage Location||South wall, you can't miss it.|
|Other References||SeeMeCNC github firmware repository|
- 1 Intro
- 2 Rules
- 3 Instructions
- 4 Maintenance Info
- 5 Filament Stock
- 6 Setup and Mechanical Alignment
- 7 Firmware
- 8 FAQ
- 9 ToDo
- 10 Authorized Users and Trainers
- 11 Examples
- Please get training before use.
- Please donate $0.10 per cubic centimeter or per gram of ABS (or $0.20 per cubic centimeter or per gram of PETT), whether or not the print succeeded. This covers both replacement cost of media, and maintenance costs. There will eventually be an indicator on the LCD at the end of the job, or when the job is terminated, showing an estimated cost of print.
- Get your model into an STL file.
- Run CURA from the icon on the desktop of the Rostock VM. It will open with the settings left by the previous user.
- File->Clear platform
- File->Load model file
- Check that infill, perimeters, etc. are set the way you want.
- At the top of the CURA window, there is a readout of how much filament will be consumed, both in linear meters and in cubic centimeters. Since ABS has a density roughly equal to 1 gm/cm^3, you can assume that your print will be roughly this much plastic in grams. Plan payment accordingly.
- File->Save gcode (it has already been generated while you weren't looking)
- Copy the gcode file you just saved to the Rostock SD card
- Put the SD card back into the Rostock and print your file
- Note that the fan on the moving platform will turn on and off automatically; you do not have to do anything special to make sure it does.
- Wait impatiently for your print to finish.
- Wait some more.
- And a little more.
- Once the print is done, wait for the bed to reach ~40C, and forcefully pry the print off the bed with your hands. DO NOT USE A METAL SCRAPER--THE BED IS GLASS. If the glass comes off, there are 6 binder clips that hold it to the heater. Two sit in the front, then one per gap in the heater support around the perimeter. Positioning of the bed is critical; please align the two black arrows in the front of the bed.
- If the bed looks like it has patchy areas of shiny glass, use a standard Elmer's School glue stick (not a hot-melt glue stick!) to recoat those areas for the next person.
- Toss the recommended donation based on the final mass of your print (based on the scale, not the CURA readout) into the bin labeled for the purpose.
- If anything goes wrong with the print, turn off the machine with its power switch.
- Please do contribute to the filament fund for the mass you did end up with.
- Take notes (and pictures!) on what failed, and send them to Andrew Meyer.
- If you want to change the filament that is in the machine, set the Extruder temperature to 230C through the machine's LCD interface, and wait for it to heat up.
- Hold the red lever on the extruder down, and firmly pull up on the filament, drawing it up and out of the hotend and Bowden cable.
- Neatly spool up the filament back onto its source spool, lock the end into the spool side, and grab the new spool.
- Feed the filament through the top plate of the machine, and into the extruder--make sure to hold down the red lever on the extruder.
- Once you have the filament in the Bowden cable, keep pushing the filament through until you see filament of the new color extruded out of the hotend.
- Go print!
Printing with PET filament
Polyethylene terephthalate is an experimental material for this printer hand has some know issues. That being said, it makes very pretty things if you're careful.
- Contact Matt Gardeski (preferably via Communication#IRC) because he bought the stuff and spent many hours working with it.
- In your slicer settings, set bed temp to 65C. This is the lowest temperature at which the PET will stick to the glass and is cool enough that the PET will harden reasonably quickly.
- Set nozzle temperature to 212C. This is important. PET is more sensitive to temperature swings than ABS.
- Set fan speed to 100%. If you don't, the filament will buckle inside the hotend and someone will have to disassemble it to get it out.
- The 0.7mm nozzle tends to produce better results with PET. It's the one without all the burnt ABS crud on it.
- Clean the glass. Use the window cleaner next to the printer and a towel. PET sticks to shiny clean glass and comes off cleanly when the bed is cooled
- ABS: hotend 210-240, bed 80-100
- PLA: hotend 190-210
- "T-Glase" PETT: hotend 212-224
If in doubt, check http://seemecnc.com/.
- Ensure even coat of gluestick on bed.
- Get hotend up to temperature and wipe off encrusted plastic with a shop towel, if any.
- Wash off glass plate for heated bed. Regular soap and water will do. Recoat evenly with gluestick after cleaning.
- Ensure axes run smoothly, and no damage to belts is happening (no black rubber dust under the three axis motors).
- Run PID autotune on bed and hotend.
- Ensure bed is level and calibrated.
- PTFE/Teflon spray lube into all delta joints--thoroughly wash bed with acetone, isopropyl, and soap and water afterwards, then recoat with gluestick.
- The filament is nominally 1.75mm diameter plastic filament purchased from SeeMeCNC. Please do not source filament from anywhere other than SeeMeCNC without asking first--many cheap suppliers pad out their filament weights with tiny steel ball bearings, which will cause havoc in the hotend.
- SeeMeCNC Neon Green ABS, 1kg, purchased 2013-07-27
- SeeMeCNC Neon Orange ABS, 1kg, purchased 2013-07-27
- SeeMeCNC Dark Blue ABS, 1kg, purchased 2013-07-27
- Taulman T-Glase PET (AKA PETT, AKA PETP...), 1lb., purchased 2013-10-01
- DC Plastico Black ABS, 1 kg, purchased 2014-10-04
- DC Plastico Transparent blue PLA, 1 kg, purchased 2014-10-04
- DC Plastico Transparent green PLA, 1 kg, purchased 2014-10-04
- SeeMeCNC White ABS, 1kg, purchased 2015-02-20
- SeeMeCNC Purple ABS, 1kg, purchased 2015-02-20
- Taulman BRIDGE Nylon, 1lb., purchased 2015-02-20
Setup and Mechanical Alignment
Firmware 0.91S from: https://github.com/seemecnc/Repetier-091-ROSTOCKMAX.git
Printer now uses a K-Type thermocouple and AD595 thermocouple amplifier.
This requires configuration changes in the firmware. If you update the firmware in the future be sure to make the changes below:
#define EXT0_TEMPSENSOR_TYPE 100
#define INVERT_X_DIR false
#define INVERT_Z_DIR false
pins.h(under board config "RAMBo Pin Assignments")
#define TEMP_0_PIN 8
- Automated display of per-print cost.
- Cooling fan design/build.
Authorized Users and Trainers
|User Name||Authorized By||Authorized Date|
|Brandon Biller||Andrew Meyer||2014/12/27|
|Stephen Marlow||Andrew Meyer||2014/12/27|
|Andrew Meyer||Andrew Meyer||2014/12/27|
|Matt Gardeski||Andrew Meyer||2014/12/27|
|Matt Huber||Andrew Meyer||2014/12/27|
|Leonard Kinnaird-Heether||Andrew Meyer||2014/12/27|
|Jon Anderson||Andrew Meyer||2014/12/28|
|Brad Tarratt||Andrew Meyer||2015/01/01|
|Nicole Weltman||Andrew Meyer||2015/01/20|
|Alek Mabry||Andrew Meyer||2015/01/20|
|Matthew Mabry||Andrew Meyer||2015/01/20|
|Ken Siegner||Andrew Meyer||2015/01/24|
|David Henry||Andrew Meyer||2015/04/16|
|Scott Scheraga||Andrew Meyer||2015/04/16|
|Jeff Bannow||Andrew Meyer||2015/04/16|
|Eva Bannow||Andrew Meyer||2015/04/16|
|Greg Smith||Andrew Meyer||2015/04/16|
|Bill Putt||Brad Tarratt||2015/05/08|
|Nick Andersen||Brad Tarratt||2015/05/28|
|Vivian Sanders||Brad Tarratt||2015/05/30|
|Christian Handley||Matthew Gardeski||2016/01/22|
|Alec Beardsley||Matthew Gardeski||2016/02/06|
|Trainer Name||Certified Date|