3D Printer - Rostock MAX
Revision as of 20:20, 5 May 2014 by Agmlego
|3D Printer - Rostock MAX|
|"File:Rostock_MAX.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Rostock MAX" cannot be used as a page name in this wiki. [[Image:|
|Name||Rostock MAX 3-D Printer|
|Owner||[[EquipOwner::Andrew Meyer (100%)]]|
|Make Model||SeeMeCNC Rostock MAX|
|Storage Location||South wall, you can't miss it.|
|Other References||SeeMeCNC github firmware repository|
- Please get training before use.
- Please donate $0.10 per cubic centimeter or per gram of plastic, whether or not the print succeeded. This covers both replacement cost of media, and maintenance costs. There will eventually be an indicator on the LCD at the end of the job, or when the job is terminated, showing an estimated cost of print.
- Get your model into an STL file.
- Using the settings File:Slic3r.ini for Slic3r (pronounced "slicer"), select the material you want to print with based on the color and spool number, and slice your model into GCODE.
- At the bottom of the resulting GCODE file (which you can open in any text editor--I like vim or Notepad++), there should be a line that says something like
; filament used = 4998.3mm (12.0cm3). Since ABS has a density roughly equal to 1 gm/cm^3, you can assume that your print will be roughly this much plastic in grams, so this sample print would be 12gm. Plan payment accordingly.
- On the fab-lab PC, open Repetier-Host, and click Connect.
- Make sure Repetier is connected to the Rostock, not the Printrbot.
- Load your GCODE file in Repetier, and hit Run Job.
- Wait impatiently for your print to finish.
- Wait some more.
- And a little more.
- Once the print is done, wait for the bed to reach ~40C, and forcefully pry the print off the bed with your hands. DO NOT USE A SCRAPER--THE BED IS GLASS. If the glass comes off, there are 6 binder clips that hold it to the heater. Two sit in the front, then one per gap in the heater support around the perimeter. Positioning of the bed is not critical.
- If the bed looks like it have patchy areas of shiny glass, use a standard gluestick to recoat those areas for the next person.
- Toss the recommended donation based on the final mass of your print into the bin labeled for the purpose.
- If anything goes wrong with the print, hit the Emergency Stop button on Repetier to stop the machine, and hit the Home button (NOT the Home X or Home Y buttons; those will crash the machine and cause major damage) to send the carriage back to the top of the machine.
- Please do contribute to the filament fund for the mass you did end up with.
- Take notes (and pictures!) on what failed, and send them to me.
- If you want to change the filament that is in the machine, set the Extruder temperature to 230C in Repetier, and wait for it to heat up.
- Hold the red lever on the extruder down, and firmly pull up on the filament, drawing it up and out of the hotend and Bowden cable.
- Neatly spool up the filament back onto its source spool, and grab the new spool.
- Feed the filament through the top plate of the machine, and into the extuder--make sure to hold down the red lever on the extruder.
- Once you have the filament in the Bowden cable, go back to Repetier and advance the filament by 50mm at a time at a speed of 300mm/s until you see filament of the new color extruded out of the hotend.
- Go print!
If you've tried all the knobs in slic3r and can't get it to do what you want
- Run cura from the icon on the desktop of the Rostock VM. It will open with the settings left by the previous user.
- File->Clear platform
- File->Load model file
- Check that infill, perimeters, etc. are set the way you want.
- File->Save gcode (it has already been generated while you weren't looking)
- Make sure your file name has no more than 8 characters + .gco
- Open the gcode file in Repetier to preview the toolpaths
- Copy the gcode file you just saved to the Rostock SD card
- Put the SD card back into the Rostock and print
Printing with PET filament
Polyethylene terephthalate is an experimental material for this printer hand has some know issues. That being said, it makes very pretty things if you're careful.
- Contact mjgardes (preferably via IRC) because he bought the stuff and spent many hours working with it.
- In your slicer settings, set bed temp to 65C. This is the lowest temperature at which the PET will stick to the glass and is cool enough that the PET will harden reasonably quickly.
- Set nozzle temperature to 212C. This is important. PET is more sensitive to temperature swings than ABS.
- Set fan speed to 100%. If you don't, the filament will buckle inside the hotend and someone will have to disassemble it to get it out.
- The 0.7mm nozzle tends to produce better results with PET. It's the one without all the burnt ABS crud on it.
- Clean the glass. Use the window cleaner next to the printer and a towel. PET sticks to shiny clean glass and comes off cleanly when the bed is cooled
- Ensure even coat of gluestick on bed.
- Get hotend up to temperature and wipe off encrusted plastic with a shop towel, if any.
- Wash off glass plate for heated bed. Regular soap and water will do. Recoat evenly with gluestick after cleaning.
- Ensure axes run smoothly, and no damage to belts is happening (no black rubber dust under the three axis motors).
- Run PID autotune on bed and hotend.
- Ensure bed is level and calibrated.
- PTFE/Teflon spray lube into all delta joints--thoroughly wash bed with acetone, isopropyl, and soap and water afterwards, then recoat with gluestick.
- The filament is nominally 1.75mm diameter ABS filament purchased from SeeMeCNC. Please do not source filament from anywhere other than SeeMeCNC without asking first--many cheap suppliers pad out their filament weights with tiny steel ball bearings, which will cause havoc in the hotend.
- Once a new spool is obtained, measure with a digital caliper the diameter in numerous spots along a 5m length and average that to get the correct diameter for this spool of filament.
- Number the side of the spool with Sharpie and tape using the next number in sequence according to the list below, and create a new Slic3r material profile named with the color and the spool number, and upload the new File:Slic3r.ini.
- SeeMeCNC Neon Green ABS, 1kg, purchased 2013-07-27
- SeeMeCNC Neon Orange ABS, 1kg, purchased 2013-07-27
- SeeMeCNC Dark Blue ABS, 1kg, purchased 2013-07-27
- Taulman T-Glase PET (AKA PETT, AKA PETP...), 1lb., purchased 2013-10-01
- Automated display of per-print cost.
- Cooling fan design/build.