Category:Welding Area

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Zone Information
Zone Name Welding Area
Status Active
Zone Slogan It's like hot glue, but hotter.
Zone Coordinator(s) Jody Raiford
Zone Slack #welding
Zone E-mail

Zone Color Purple
Paypal Button Pay money to Welding Area

Safety First

Welding is a great way to join and form metal. Welding use comes at some risk. Let's be careful out there.

  • Eye protection. You must protect your eyes from the bright welding light. If you are TIG, MIG or Arc welding you should be wearing a welding helmet. If you are using oxygen/acetylene welding then you should be wearing a pair of gas welding goggles or the dark face shield.
  • Consider the eye protection of others around you. Will they get flashed by your welding arc? Use the welding safety screens to protect others in the shop.
  • Proper clothing. Shorts and T-shirt won't do. Arc welding gives off extremely bright UV light, and you will become badly sunburned in no time. Best is long sleeve cotton clothing and long cotton pants (tight knit lightweight wool is actually the "best", but hard to find). Polyester clothing will melt easily and should never be worn by anyone welding.
  • Proper footwear. Leather closed toe shoes should be worn. It doesn't take long for a small hot bead of metal to burn right through the top of your canvas tennis shoes. Also consider wearing boots instead of low cut shoes. Think what will happen if a drop of molten metal gets inside your shoe. Ouch.
  • Wear welding gloves to protect your hands. Mechanics' gloves tend to have plastic or rubber which will melt while welding.
  • Don't forget that it takes time for hot welded metal to cool. Use pliers to lift work off of the table. Don't leave hot work where an innocent bystander could become burned. If you aren't sure about the temperature of a piece, assume it's hot until proven otherwise.
  • Ventilation. Don't breath the fumes, some/most metals and filler material contains toxic fumes.
  • Quick.. where is the nearest fire extinguisher?

Shut Down

  • "Gas First" : Close all gas bottles
  • "Cables off the floor" : Coil all cables/cords (no sharp kinks) and hang them so they are off the floor
  • Put tools away
  • Put material away: Usable Scrap under table or in bins, project material in personal storage (mark it or lose it!)
  • Turn off disconnects on east wall "BusBar #1 MIG Welders, BusBar #2 TIG Welders)
  • Clear table, Grind spatter, sweep. (Leave it better than you found it)
  • Turn off over head lights (Orange switch on east wall)


  • Q: How do I use the zone?
    • A: If you know how to weld, go for it. Try not to break anything or hurt anybody, and clean up when you are done.
  • Q: How much should I pay to use the welding zone?
    • A: While there aren't usage costs per se, $2 per hour that you are using the zone helps to cover the cost of gas, wire, wheels, electrodes, etc.
  • Q: How much should I pay for consumables?
    • A: Each consumable has its own cost, including gloves, dust masks, lens covers, etc. They are generally marked on the package as a guide to those who wish to help contribute to the zone. If there is no price on it, it's part of the $2/hr general usage contribution.
  • Q: I'm really broke right now. Can I use the zone without paying?
    • A: Totally. Money helps keep things rolling, but your enthusiasm, effort, and attitude are far more important! As long as you are continuing to help make the zone, and the world, a better place, nobody is going to stress too much about your $2.
  • Q: If I pay, does that mean I don't need to clean up?
    • A: Your money is not important. Helpful, but not important. Your engagement, enthusiasm, and effort 'is' important! That means, no matter how much you are contributing financially, leaving the zone better than you found it, especially picking up after yourself, is the real payment.

Table of Equipment

Equipment Authorization Owner(s) Status
150lb Anvil Yes Alex Tsuker Running
Bench-Mounted Manual Metal Shear No i3Detroit Running
Hobart Tigwave 250 AC/DC No i3Detroit Running
Hossfeld 2 Universal bender No i3Detroit Running
MIG Welder - Miller Millermatic 212 No i3Detroit Running
Oxy-Acetylene Torch No i3Detroit Running
Handheld Plasma Cutter No i3Detroit Running
Rolling Toolbox No Jody Raiford Running
Solid Fuel Forge Yes Alex Tsuker Running
Stick Welder 2 No Ted Hansen Running
New TIG No i3Detroit Running
Weld Zone Light Button No i3Detroit Running
Welding Table No i3Detroit Running
Leg Vice No Alex Tsuker Down
CNC Plasma Cutter Yes i3Detroit Down



Learn to MIG

Learn to TIG


Wishlist and Tasks

  • Recurring tasks
    • Sort scrap storage (GET RID OF UNUSABLE SCRAP)


  • Miter saw:
    • Attach ammeter and appropriate notices (to keep people from unintentionally burning up the blades)
    • Poster about correct clamping
    • Vacuum? (auto on, runs for a few seconds after saw stops, attached to table or saw?, tub/channel needed? Is this even needed?)
    • Adjustable table with long-stock support (nice to have)

  • Bottle cage
  • Angle Grinder storage rack
  • CNC plasma table (slack #cnc_build_or_buy)
  • Layout table
  • Air filter/fume extractor
  • Update zone picture
  • Make sure ALL big equipment has Wiki pages
  • Protect downloads from bit rot
  • Welding booths (with fume extraction)
    • Need to draw up rudimentary plans for how to do this.
      • Initial idea is to use the donated sheet panels to make walls around the welding half of the big square table.
    • Fume extraction ideas
      • Downdraft by making a tray for the work surface and a double-wall for the back, with some kind of airflow suction above the double-wall
      • Arm above (using the big white donated arm, maybe, needs repair)
  • Post anvil from large stock
    • Decide on appropriate height (Probably want it a bit on the high side, since it's easier for short folks to use a platform than it is for tall folks to bed over... Or is it better to put the anvil on a platform for tall folks?)
    • Cut appropriate length of the 5.5" round stock
  1. Clear the stock from above it on the rack
  2. Use the pallet lifter to raise one edge
  3. Put wood 4x4 under the stock
  4. Use pallet lifter to fully lift stock (balanced, center spread)
  5. Move the stock so that it can be cut on a drop bandsaw (bring the Dake close, or figure out how to use the new (as of 2021) saw)
  6. Replace the remaining stock on the rack and clean up
    • Chamfer the edge of the post to allow for a solid weld
    • Weld post to Foot (The big round piece with the green tape label "Post Anvil Foot")
      • Not sure what the best direction is, lip up or lip down... I guess use your best judgement?
    • Bonus: Use the hardface rod to add a layer of really hard metal to the top of the post

  • Helmet lockers
    • Purchase or fab (DONE!)
    • Replace doors with clear (acrylic, polycarb, glass, whatever. Ideally will allow enough light through to charge welding helmets.)

  • Bench shear
    • Mount on a pedestal (or attach to table better)
    • Fabricate or purchase a hold-down

  • The Big Vise
    • Mount on pedestal (fabricate)
    • Clean and lube

  • New Miller TIG
    • Add busbar drop (240v, single phase, 131 amps)
      • Find unused box, probably on A-side
      • Move unused box over to B-side above new TIG
      • Locate and install appropriate wire. See old yellow TIG for example.
    • Test

  • Old yellow TIG
    • Re-label front panel - The old labels are worn off. Consult manual and relabel, ideally with nice label maker, otherwise green tape and sharpie

  • more items on [wishlist]

  • Completed tasks
    • TIG chiller turn on with machine.